Spiral Rings - Moogly2020CAL

I am excited to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2020CAL Blankets. This is my fourth year designing a square for the CAL, and I had a lot of fun coming up with this one. Enjoy!

~~~~~

Spiral Rings Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Concentric circles are overlayed by rays coming out from the center of this afghan square. Spiral rays are worked with tall front post stitches worked into stitches 2 rounds below giving the square texture and flow.

FINISHED SIZE

12” by 12”

YARN USED

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn.

Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn in Jadeite (A), Taupe (B), Cornsilk (C), and Mango (D).

NOTIONS

J hook (or hook to get gauge)

GAUGE

12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”

~~~~~

·     Pay close attention to which stitch to join in on each round. Sometimes it may be the second or the last stitch of the previous round.

·       All Front Post Double Treble Crochets (fpdtr) are worked around stitches on two rounds down.

·       Instructions in bold draw your attention to the first time a “Special Stitch” is used or the instructions change to something different from previous rounds.

SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times.

Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (fpsc): Insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook.

Front Post Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fptr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Front Post Double Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fpdtr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

HELPFUL TUTORIAL LINKS from Mooglyblog.com

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Double Crochet/Standing Double Crochet

Joining with a Half Double Crochet/Standing Half Double Crochet

Post Stitches and Post Stitches into Single Crochets

Overlapping Post Stitch Pattern

~~~~~

PATTERN 

(Refer to Diagram in Printable Version HERE)

Ch 3 with Color A, join with sl st in third ch from hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 dc in ch-3 ring, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color A – 12 dc.

Rnd 2: Join Color B with standing dc in second dc, dc in same dc, 2 dc in each dc around, 2 dc in joining sl st, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B – 24 dc.

Rnd 3: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next dc, fpdtr (see Special Stitches) around beg ch of Rnd 1, *hdc in next 2 dc of Rnd 2, fpdtr around next unused dc of Rnd 1; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 36 sts.

Rnd 4: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd (before join), *fpdc (see Special Stitches) around next 2 hdc, dc in top of next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 2 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C.

Rnd 5: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 3, *hdc in next 3 sts of Rnd 4, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 3; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 48 sts.

Rnd 6: Join Color D with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 3 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 3 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D.

Rnd 7: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 5, *hdc in next 4 sts of Rnd 6, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 5; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 60 sts.

Rnd 8: Join Color B with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 4 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B.

Rnd 9: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 7, *hdc in next 5 sts of Rnd 8, fpdtr around  next fpdtr of Rnd 7; Rep from * around, hdc in last dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 72 sts.

Rnd 10: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, 2 fpdc around next hdc, [dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 5 hdc] 2 times**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C – 76 sts.

Rnd 11: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 9, *hdc in next 2 sts of Rnd 10, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr (see Special Stitches)  around next fpdtr of Rnd 9, hdc in next 7 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9**, hdc in next 6 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 92 sts.

Rnd 12: Join Color D with standing dc in first fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next hdc, fptr around next hdc, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 2 hdc, dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 3 hdc, fphdc (see Special Stitches)  around next 4 hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 2 hdc, fpdc around next 4 hdc**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D – 100 sts.

Rnd 13: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 4 sts, fpdtr around first fpdtr of Rnd 11, *2 hdc in next 2 fptr of Rnd 12, hdc in next 5 sts, fptr around next fptr of Rnd 11, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fptr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11**, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 4  join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 120 sts.

Rnd 14: Join Color B with standing hdc in last fptr of prev rnd, *fphdc around next 4 hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, tr in next fpdtr, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, fphdc around next hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 3 hdc, fpsc (see Special Stitches) around next 6 hdc**, hdc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color B – 128 sts.

Rnd 15: Join Color A with standing hdc in first hdc, hdc in next 2 sts, *fptr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around last fptr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next fptr, fpdtr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, 2 hdc in next fptr, hdc in next 8 sts, fptr-hdc-2tog around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14**, hdc in next 11 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in next 8 sts, join with sl st in first hdc, DO NOT finish off Color A – 136 sts.

Rnd 16: Ch1, sc in first 15 sts, *ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 34 sts; Rep from * 2 more times, ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 19 sts, join with sl st in first sc – 140 scs. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner.

~~~~~

Find Moogly's blog post about the Spiral Rings Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2020CAL here!

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern on Ravelry here.

Go back and find the previous squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!

Pinwheel Square - Moogly2019CAL

I am thrilled to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2019CAL Blankets. This is my third year designing a square for the CAL, and I decided to try something a little bit different. Enjoy!

~~~~~

Pinwheel Square Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Get spun with this fun and colorful Pinwheel blanket square. Each petal is worked out from a center ring, then back in to opposite direction without turning to form the raised edges. The reverse single crochet edge is worked into the front loop only, leaving the back loop to stitch into for the next petal. This idea may have you spinning, but follow the instructions step by step and give it a try! (Scroll to bottom for link to get printable PDF).

FINISHED SIZE 12” by 12”

MATERIALS

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn and J hook (or hook to get gauge).

    Color suggestions A (darkest), B (medium), C (higher contrast), D (neutral).

    Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn 

         in Peacock, Cornsilk, Lettuce, and Taupe.

13 Stitch Markers (recommended).

GAUGE 12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”.

~~~~~

SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Changing Colors: Work previous stitch up to last yarn over, yarn over to with new color, pull through last two loop, drop old color to back of work and continue with new color.

Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog): *Yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops; Repeat from *, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog): Yo, insert hook into next ch-1 sp, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (revsc): Without turning your work, working from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters), insert hook in the next stitch (under your hook), yo, pull up a loop without twisting the hook, yo, pull through both loops on hook.

Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): [Insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Treble Crochet 3 Together (tr3tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times; Repeat from * 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

TUTORIAL LINKS (on Mooglyblog.com)

Reverse Single Crochet/Crab Stitch

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Single Crochet/Standing Single Crochet

~~~~~

PATTERN (Refer to Diagram in printable PDF of this pattern here.)

Pinwheel Pattern Notes

• Reverse single crochets form the raised “crab stitch” edging of each Petal. They are worked from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters).
• Recommended to place a stitch marker in the unused back loop of the last treble crochet stitch so make it easier to find on Rnd 1 of the Square.
• Each time you change colors on the Pinwheel, flip unused colors of yarn up under the hook, between the hook and working yarn. This will bring the yarn up so the new color is ready to join on the next Petal.
• The first sc of each Pinwheel Petal is worked in the previous color, making it easier to find the first stitch to work into for the next Petal.
• If you have trouble finding the center of the ring, or the first or last stitches on a petal or round, place a stitch marker in the stitch when you first make it.

Pinwheel Pattern

With Color A, ch 14. (Be sure to read all of the pattern notes before starting)

First Petal: Join with sl st in 4^th ch from hook to form ring (place stitch marker in center of ring), work into remaining chs, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, htr (see Special Stitches) in next ch, 2 htr in next ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, tr in last ch, place stitch marker in back loop of last tr made; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc (see Special Stitches) in the flo (front loops only) of each stitch across to ring (14 revscs), sl st in center of ring, do not turn.

Next Petal: Working in unused back loops (blo) of previous petal, sc in first sc changing color to B (see Special Stitches), hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, dc in next hdc, 2 dc in next dc, htr in next dc, 2 htr in next dc, tr in next htr, 2 tr in next htr, tr in next htr, leave remaining 4 sts unused; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc in the flo of each stitch across to ring (last stitch will be in prev color), sl st in ring, do not turn.

Repeat “Next Petal” instructions for 10 more Petals. Change to color C for third Petal, then alternate colors A, B, and C around for a total of 12 petals.

Joining Petals: Fold Petals so front (or right) sides of first and last petal are facing together. Join petals together by slip stitching through both the back loop of Last Petal and unused loops of beginning chain on First Petal, keeping slip stitches on the back (or wrong) sides. Finish off all three colors.

Square Pattern Notes

• If loops are getting too loose when working only into the back loop, pull up on ridge of revscs. This will pull up the front loops they were worked into, tightening back loops so the holes do not seem as big.
• The back loop of the last treble on each petal may be difficult to find unless you used stitch markers. However, you can use any loop at the top of that stitch that works for you, just be consistent.

Square Pattern

With right side facing, work into back loops of the last 5 trebles that at the ends of each Petal (behind the revscs).

Rnd 1: Working into any of the color A Petals, join color D with a sc in blo of third unused tr (stitch before marker), *ch 2, sc in unused blo of next tr of same petal (see pattern notes), sk to next Petal, tr in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal, [dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr, sc in blo of last 2 trs, sk to next Petal, dc in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal] 2 times, dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr**, sc in blo of next tr; Rep from *2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc – 60 sts and 4 ch-2 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in first sc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts**, dc in next 2 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last st, join with sl st in first dc – 76 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in first 3 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, **, dc in next 5 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color D – 92 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 4: Join color B with sl st in second dc made on Rnd 3, ch 2, dc in same dc as join, *3 tr in next dc, dc2tog (see Special Stitches), hdc2tog in next ch-sp and dc (see Special Stitches), [dc in next st, 3 tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st] 3 times**, dc in next dc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color B – 120 sts.

Rnd 5: Join color C with sc in second tr of prev rnd, 2 sc in same tr, *sc in each of next 5 sts, [3 sc in next tr, sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog (see Special Stitches), sc in next 2 sts] 3 times**, 3 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color C – 128 sts.

Rnd 6: Join color A with sc in second sc of prev rnd, *hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, (dc, tr) in next sc, 2 tr in next sc, (tr, dc) in next sc, dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, [sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, tr3tog (see Special Stitches), dc in next sc, hdc in next sc] 3 times**, sc in next sc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color A – 116 sts.

Rnd 7: Join color D with sc in first sc of prev rnd, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr, *sc in next 27 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times, sc in next 22 sts, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color D and weave in all ends – 128 sts. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner. each corner.

Find Moogly's blog post about the Pinwheel Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2019CAL here! 

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern with Diagram on Ravelry here.

Now, go back and find the previous three squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!

Dyers in Their Studios - Stacey of Fierce Fibers

Meet Stacey Serafin of Fierce Fibers (formerly known as Thoroughly Thwacked). Her gradient yarns will be featured in our upcoming Summer 2018 Ficstitches Yarns Crochet Kit Club. Preorders are open this month only.

But here is the profile I wrote about her when I did my first collaboration with her in December 2016. Things have changed a bit now that she primarily focuses on Gradient Cakes with some coordinating solids, but this interview was particularly interesting to learn more about how the gradients are made...

I first met Stacey last year at CGFF, although I had heard about her yarns. As I was walking around crocheting a shawl with a project bag hanging from my wrist (as you do), I was excited to find her booth and discover that she was a crocheter! She was crocheting a shawl at the time, though she knits as well, of course.

We ran into her again during the Rose City Yarn Crawl last March, and chose some yarn to play with for a future Ficstitches Yarns Crochet Kit Club. But that Kit won't be coming until early 2018, so I was really excited when we came up with the a Shawl Kit to do together this year.

Now learn more about Stacey...

Decadent Bliss Shawl in Stacey's Gradient Lace

BACKGROUND

·    How long have you been dyeing yarn? Since 2013, after learning how to knit in 2011 & learning how to spin fiber into yarn in 2012.

·      How did you get started dyeing? I got started when a friend of mine who owned a yarn shop was looking for something specific and couldn't find it.  We ended up developing a gradient kit for customers and the reception was quite good.  I enjoyed collaborating and working with people who were creative and it was great to see people make the kit we made and make it their own.

·     What is your background?  Received a B.S. in Physics and B.S. in Mathematics from the State University of New York at Buffalo. Then received a Masters in Nanotechnology in 2005 from the University of Delft in The Netherlands.

·     Do you have any special experience with art or science that influences your dyeing? There is a certain aspect that appeals to someone with a scientific background such as repeatability, planning and experimentation, not to mention all the chemistry behind it.  I've always been a big planner and with my scientific background experimentation and chemistry are big with me.  

     There are parts of dyeing though that I would say are attractive to me for the very reason, that they are the opposite of what I know and am comfortable with.  For example, there is also a big part of dyeing that is creativity.  Not that I'm not creative but the study and appeal of color and certain color combinations is something that fascinates me.  What makes us creative?  What makes us like one color combination and hate another?  Dyeing is a combination of all these factors.  I guess one of my best experiences is keeping my own curiosity from when I was a child!

Fierce Fibers yarns at OFFF. That cake in the middle was destined
to become Laurinda's newest shawl pattern, Decadent Bliss.

YOUR YARN

·       What makes your yarn special or unique?  I would like to think what makes my yarn special is me!  When I started dyeing my brain was riddled with ways to modify the process and try and squeeze more and more color into things. Yarn is my medium of expressing myself and always trying to push the boundaries and give people something different to work with.  For example, early on I learned about pooling and how the dye process can influence it.  So I made up a way to make skeins that didn't pool.  I also exploit pooling in a few of my colorways.  I've tried to come up with ways to use the “difficult” colors to the best of my ability.  

    I've talked to my distributors and tried to understand more about my supply chain.  I'm always talking to customers and finding out what they like as well.  What makes my yarns special is me.  My selection of the best bases I can find, combined with the best techniques, while being sensitive to the supply chain and aware of what my customers want.  Obviously this makes for a high quality product that is packed with color.

    ·     What is something interesting about your dyeing process that non-dyers might not know? I don't just use any single dye technique out there.  In many of my yarns I use multiple techniques because each technique has both good and bad things about it.  I have spent a lot of time working with different fibers to try and understand how each of them behave in the dye pot...because no one likes felted yarn or fiber!  

   Another thing that people may not know is that my cake gradients are all made by me.  Cake gradients first need to be knitted up into what they call a blank which is basically a piece of fabric.  They then need to be dyed, frogged (ripped out) and balled up.  As you can imagine, this is all labor intensive.  Unlike other dyers I do not buy my blanks, I make them myself because I want to be able to give my customers gradients in yarns they don't see anywhere else.   

·      How do you choose your colors and name your yarns? Experimentation is probably the biggest way I choose my colors at the moment, although I'm currently trying to expand my knowledge on color and doing more and more exercises on color planning and color studies.  My yarn names mostly come from how I feel when I hold the yarn.  My colorway names come from every day conversations that I have with people and I hear catch phrases that I think, “that would be a great colorway name” so I write it down and really think about what that would look like.  Also, sometimes a color comes out of the pot and it just looks like something so I go with that.

·       Where do you find inspiration?  Everywhere!  Pinterest, facebook, pictures in my head...

Here is that "Oregon" gradient cake just dyed up. Stacey is one
of the few gradient dyers I've found who takes the extra steps to
get the kinks out of a dyed blank. A must for crocheting with it!

JUST THE FACTS

·    How many colorways do you have? In the 3 years I've been dyeing I've probably made over 200 colorways.  Currently I have about 20 solid colorways I regularly sell.

·     Do you create seasonal or special order colors? Yes, but usually in a strange and quarky way.  For example for Valentine's Day this year I made Dragon's Breath.  It's a deep red tone for all those people who like to enjoy garlic ladened meals on Valentine's.

·    How many and what types of bases do you use? At the moment I have 18 bases but I am reducing that number drastically.  I will be sticking to bases that are more luxurious since that is what I prefer to work with.  I prefer to work with cashmere and silk blends along with a baby alpaca laceweight.

·        Where do your yarn bases come from? All over the world.

·       Where can we find your yarn? LYSs and online? My yarns and fiber can be found currently at Pearl Fiber Arts in Portland, OR as well as online at www.fiercefibers.com.  A small selection is also available at Embraceable Ewe in Hamburg, NY as well as Quilt n' Things Fiber Arts in Montrose, CA.  Also, please check out my events section on my webpage to see me in person at future festivals.

Much of Stacey's yarns come in cones like this so she has more options,
whether she knits it into blanks on a knitting machine or puts it into hanks.

PERSONAL

·     What are your favorite colors?  I love all my children...err...colors equally. Especially red, I love red just as equally as all the rest ;)

·       Favorite fibers? Animal fibers are definitely my loves. 

·      Do you crochet, knit, or spin? What came first? I learned to crochet when I was very young.  My mom had a crochet blanket that we would work on when we would sit on the couch and watch Dynasty together.  I did all sorts of crafty things when I was younger, macrame, boondoggle, beading, friendship bracelets, cross stitch.  It all fell away as I became a teenager and went to college.  After my second son was born I really wanted to learn how to knit so I could make something with my hands.  I took one class and I was off.  I made some fibery friends and learned how to spin a few years after that.  I will also confess to having rescued an antique rug loom that my step-father is currently refurbishing for me.

·       Anything else you would like to share? Pie.  Do you have any pie?  I like pie!

LINK UP

·       Website: Fiercefibers.com

·       Facebook: Facebook.com/fiercefibers

·       Instagram: fiercefibers

Choose Staycation or Scorch for the Summer Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club!
PreOrder Your Kit Club Today!