Spiral Rings - Moogly2020CAL

I am excited to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2020CAL Blankets. This is my fourth year designing a square for the CAL, and I had a lot of fun coming up with this one. Enjoy!

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Spiral Rings Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Concentric circles are overlayed by rays coming out from the center of this afghan square. Spiral rays are worked with tall front post stitches worked into stitches 2 rounds below giving the square texture and flow.

FINISHED SIZE

12” by 12”

YARN USED

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn.

Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn in Jadeite (A), Taupe (B), Cornsilk (C), and Mango (D).

NOTIONS

J hook (or hook to get gauge)

GAUGE

12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”

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·     Pay close attention to which stitch to join in on each round. Sometimes it may be the second or the last stitch of the previous round.

·       All Front Post Double Treble Crochets (fpdtr) are worked around stitches on two rounds down.

·       Instructions in bold draw your attention to the first time a “Special Stitch” is used or the instructions change to something different from previous rounds.

SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times.

Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (fpsc): Insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook.

Front Post Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fptr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Front Post Double Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fpdtr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

HELPFUL TUTORIAL LINKS from Mooglyblog.com

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Double Crochet/Standing Double Crochet

Joining with a Half Double Crochet/Standing Half Double Crochet

Post Stitches and Post Stitches into Single Crochets

Overlapping Post Stitch Pattern

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PATTERN 

(Refer to Diagram in Printable Version HERE)

Ch 3 with Color A, join with sl st in third ch from hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 dc in ch-3 ring, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color A – 12 dc.

Rnd 2: Join Color B with standing dc in second dc, dc in same dc, 2 dc in each dc around, 2 dc in joining sl st, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B – 24 dc.

Rnd 3: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next dc, fpdtr (see Special Stitches) around beg ch of Rnd 1, *hdc in next 2 dc of Rnd 2, fpdtr around next unused dc of Rnd 1; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 36 sts.

Rnd 4: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd (before join), *fpdc (see Special Stitches) around next 2 hdc, dc in top of next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 2 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C.

Rnd 5: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 3, *hdc in next 3 sts of Rnd 4, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 3; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 48 sts.

Rnd 6: Join Color D with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 3 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 3 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D.

Rnd 7: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 5, *hdc in next 4 sts of Rnd 6, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 5; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 60 sts.

Rnd 8: Join Color B with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 4 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B.

Rnd 9: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 7, *hdc in next 5 sts of Rnd 8, fpdtr around  next fpdtr of Rnd 7; Rep from * around, hdc in last dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 72 sts.

Rnd 10: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, 2 fpdc around next hdc, [dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 5 hdc] 2 times**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C – 76 sts.

Rnd 11: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 9, *hdc in next 2 sts of Rnd 10, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr (see Special Stitches)  around next fpdtr of Rnd 9, hdc in next 7 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9**, hdc in next 6 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 92 sts.

Rnd 12: Join Color D with standing dc in first fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next hdc, fptr around next hdc, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 2 hdc, dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 3 hdc, fphdc (see Special Stitches)  around next 4 hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 2 hdc, fpdc around next 4 hdc**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D – 100 sts.

Rnd 13: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 4 sts, fpdtr around first fpdtr of Rnd 11, *2 hdc in next 2 fptr of Rnd 12, hdc in next 5 sts, fptr around next fptr of Rnd 11, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fptr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11**, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 4  join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 120 sts.

Rnd 14: Join Color B with standing hdc in last fptr of prev rnd, *fphdc around next 4 hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, tr in next fpdtr, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, fphdc around next hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 3 hdc, fpsc (see Special Stitches) around next 6 hdc**, hdc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color B – 128 sts.

Rnd 15: Join Color A with standing hdc in first hdc, hdc in next 2 sts, *fptr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around last fptr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next fptr, fpdtr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, 2 hdc in next fptr, hdc in next 8 sts, fptr-hdc-2tog around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14**, hdc in next 11 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in next 8 sts, join with sl st in first hdc, DO NOT finish off Color A – 136 sts.

Rnd 16: Ch1, sc in first 15 sts, *ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 34 sts; Rep from * 2 more times, ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 19 sts, join with sl st in first sc – 140 scs. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner.

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Find Moogly's blog post about the Spiral Rings Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2020CAL here!

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern on Ravelry here.

Go back and find the previous squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!

Pinwheel Square - Moogly2019CAL

I am thrilled to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2019CAL Blankets. This is my third year designing a square for the CAL, and I decided to try something a little bit different. Enjoy!

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Pinwheel Square Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Get spun with this fun and colorful Pinwheel blanket square. Each petal is worked out from a center ring, then back in to opposite direction without turning to form the raised edges. The reverse single crochet edge is worked into the front loop only, leaving the back loop to stitch into for the next petal. This idea may have you spinning, but follow the instructions step by step and give it a try! (Scroll to bottom for link to get printable PDF).

FINISHED SIZE 12” by 12”

MATERIALS

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn and J hook (or hook to get gauge).

    Color suggestions A (darkest), B (medium), C (higher contrast), D (neutral).

    Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn 

         in Peacock, Cornsilk, Lettuce, and Taupe.

13 Stitch Markers (recommended).

GAUGE 12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”.

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SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Changing Colors: Work previous stitch up to last yarn over, yarn over to with new color, pull through last two loop, drop old color to back of work and continue with new color.

Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog): *Yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops; Repeat from *, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog): Yo, insert hook into next ch-1 sp, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (revsc): Without turning your work, working from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters), insert hook in the next stitch (under your hook), yo, pull up a loop without twisting the hook, yo, pull through both loops on hook.

Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): [Insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Treble Crochet 3 Together (tr3tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times; Repeat from * 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

TUTORIAL LINKS (on Mooglyblog.com)

Reverse Single Crochet/Crab Stitch

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Single Crochet/Standing Single Crochet

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PATTERN (Refer to Diagram in printable PDF of this pattern here.)

Pinwheel Pattern Notes

• Reverse single crochets form the raised “crab stitch” edging of each Petal. They are worked from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters).
• Recommended to place a stitch marker in the unused back loop of the last treble crochet stitch so make it easier to find on Rnd 1 of the Square.
• Each time you change colors on the Pinwheel, flip unused colors of yarn up under the hook, between the hook and working yarn. This will bring the yarn up so the new color is ready to join on the next Petal.
• The first sc of each Pinwheel Petal is worked in the previous color, making it easier to find the first stitch to work into for the next Petal.
• If you have trouble finding the center of the ring, or the first or last stitches on a petal or round, place a stitch marker in the stitch when you first make it.

Pinwheel Pattern

With Color A, ch 14. (Be sure to read all of the pattern notes before starting)

First Petal: Join with sl st in 4^th ch from hook to form ring (place stitch marker in center of ring), work into remaining chs, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, htr (see Special Stitches) in next ch, 2 htr in next ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, tr in last ch, place stitch marker in back loop of last tr made; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc (see Special Stitches) in the flo (front loops only) of each stitch across to ring (14 revscs), sl st in center of ring, do not turn.

Next Petal: Working in unused back loops (blo) of previous petal, sc in first sc changing color to B (see Special Stitches), hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, dc in next hdc, 2 dc in next dc, htr in next dc, 2 htr in next dc, tr in next htr, 2 tr in next htr, tr in next htr, leave remaining 4 sts unused; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc in the flo of each stitch across to ring (last stitch will be in prev color), sl st in ring, do not turn.

Repeat “Next Petal” instructions for 10 more Petals. Change to color C for third Petal, then alternate colors A, B, and C around for a total of 12 petals.

Joining Petals: Fold Petals so front (or right) sides of first and last petal are facing together. Join petals together by slip stitching through both the back loop of Last Petal and unused loops of beginning chain on First Petal, keeping slip stitches on the back (or wrong) sides. Finish off all three colors.

Square Pattern Notes

• If loops are getting too loose when working only into the back loop, pull up on ridge of revscs. This will pull up the front loops they were worked into, tightening back loops so the holes do not seem as big.
• The back loop of the last treble on each petal may be difficult to find unless you used stitch markers. However, you can use any loop at the top of that stitch that works for you, just be consistent.

Square Pattern

With right side facing, work into back loops of the last 5 trebles that at the ends of each Petal (behind the revscs).

Rnd 1: Working into any of the color A Petals, join color D with a sc in blo of third unused tr (stitch before marker), *ch 2, sc in unused blo of next tr of same petal (see pattern notes), sk to next Petal, tr in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal, [dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr, sc in blo of last 2 trs, sk to next Petal, dc in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal] 2 times, dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr**, sc in blo of next tr; Rep from *2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc – 60 sts and 4 ch-2 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in first sc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts**, dc in next 2 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last st, join with sl st in first dc – 76 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in first 3 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, **, dc in next 5 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color D – 92 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 4: Join color B with sl st in second dc made on Rnd 3, ch 2, dc in same dc as join, *3 tr in next dc, dc2tog (see Special Stitches), hdc2tog in next ch-sp and dc (see Special Stitches), [dc in next st, 3 tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st] 3 times**, dc in next dc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color B – 120 sts.

Rnd 5: Join color C with sc in second tr of prev rnd, 2 sc in same tr, *sc in each of next 5 sts, [3 sc in next tr, sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog (see Special Stitches), sc in next 2 sts] 3 times**, 3 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color C – 128 sts.

Rnd 6: Join color A with sc in second sc of prev rnd, *hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, (dc, tr) in next sc, 2 tr in next sc, (tr, dc) in next sc, dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, [sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, tr3tog (see Special Stitches), dc in next sc, hdc in next sc] 3 times**, sc in next sc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color A – 116 sts.

Rnd 7: Join color D with sc in first sc of prev rnd, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr, *sc in next 27 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times, sc in next 22 sts, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color D and weave in all ends – 128 sts. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner. each corner.

Find Moogly's blog post about the Pinwheel Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2019CAL here! 

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern with Diagram on Ravelry here.

Now, go back and find the previous three squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!

COWLtober 2016 - Free Weekly Patterns This Month!

For Info about COWLtober 2018 

CLICK HERE

Autumn is here! Time to crochet some warm and cozy Cowls for yourself or holiday gifting. This month I have put together FIVE Easy Cowl Patterns you can whip up in no time.

Get one pattern delivered directly to your email Every Monday in October simply by joining the ReCrochetions Mailing List.

Receive Your Weekly Crochet Cowl Patterns:

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Each Cowl Pattern uses basic crochet stitches in a different weight of yarn, in a variety of fibers. Most yarns come from local PNW yarn dyers or fiber farmers, and I will share profiles about them here on ReCrochetions so you can learn about a variety of yarn makers.

PREVIEW of The Cowls....

Special thanks to my brother in law Guy Holtzman for the phtography, and my friend Nancie Helders for my adorable COWLtober Owls! She's actually an awesome anime artist!

My 100th Design: Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts

“You don’t know what’s hiding in the brush,” her great aunt had told her sternly as Deirdre pulled on the hook-stitched mitts. Great Aunt Clary tied a stitched kerchief, still smelling of wool oil, around Deirdre’s neck and shoulders. “No fool ever died from being cautious.”

- Excerpt from “The Soldier’s Stitch” by C. Jane Reid

Lacy fingerless mitts and kerchief are both worked in the same pattern of V-stitches from different angles, creating an airy fabric with plenty of stretch. Perfect for life on the island or a cool summer evening.

We recently closed preorders for our Fall Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club, so I am ready to share the design from our Spring Kit. Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts were inspired by the lead character in The Soldier's Stitch by C. Jane Reid, which was published exclusively for our Spring Kit Club, but will be published on it's own in just a few months.

The Kerchief and Mitts are worked in a brand new Sport weight MCN (merino/ cashmere/nylon) yarn from Black Trillium Fibres called Sunriver. The pattern uses about 1 and a 1/2 skeins of 330 yards in Sport weight, so you will need 2 of most standard skeins.

As I often am with lacy patterns, I was inspired by a stitch pattern I came across in a Japanese Stitch Dictionary. If you haven't used one before, these are entire books of nothing but stitch diagrams for a variety of patterns. But after a little experimenting and swatching, by the time I finish with it, the stitch pattern seldom resembles the one I was inspired by.

In this case, I wanted to work out how to increase from a small point (at the bottom of the kerchief) by adding a few stitches on each side of every row. I actually sketched out the stitch diagram first to determine how I would work the increases. This is very unusual for me, as I am very much a process driven designer and tend to work the pattern out as I go.

I was so taken with this particular lace pattern and the idea of creating a triangle from a small point, that I have already developed a couple of other designs using the same combination of alternated rows of V-stitches and 2dcV-Stitches.

For the Mitts, I used the same lace pattern worked back and forth from the fingers down. The stretchiness of this lace pattern lends itself really well to these one-size gloves. As with most of my patterns, I include alternative design suggestions to make it your own, which may help you adjust the Mitts to fit your hands or make the Kerchief into a larger Shawl.

Now you too can crochet this charming set of lacy kerchief and fingerless gloves. The pattern, including detailed stitch diagrams, is now available on Ravelry. With adding this pattern to my designs on Ravelry, this makes my 100th design! So I would like to offer a $1 off coupon for Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts for the first 2 weeks (until Thursday August 25th). 

Use Discount Code: "100Designs" on the Ravelry!

Robin's Wings - A New Pattern for a Cause

All proceeds from sales of Robin's Wings will
be donated to my Aunt Robin's Fund to help her
cover medical and living expenses as she is
recovering from chemotherapy for breast cancer.

Check out my newest design, Robin's Wings! You can make it in Lace or Fingering Weight, Long (as shown) or Short. Inspired by my Aunt Robin. I wanted to 'give her wings' to wrap herself in comfort, as she recovers from surgery and chemotherapy for breast cancer.

When I first started designing shawls, she asked me to design her a large, light-weight shawl to use in her meditation practice. But it wasn't until after she was diagnosed that I found my inspiration.

One morning, as I was making my morning mocha in my studio, I was thinking about how I wished I lived closer to my aunt so I could help her more. I was looking over my wall of yarn and suddenly had the inspiration to design a shawl for my aunt, and donate all of the proceeds from the sales of the patterns to her Fund.

I wanted something to represent the feathers of a bird's wings. I grabbed my sketchbook, and began sketching, interlocking feathers, increasing from the center out to create a curve that would stay in place. I figured pineapples would make perfect feathers, with just a little bit of tweaking to get the look and shape I wanted.

By the end of the day, I had 2 large swatches (in lace and fingering weight), and had contacted the dyer at Black Trillium Fibres to arrange to get yarn dyed in my aunt's favorite color. Both their lace weight Silken and fingering weight Lilt are beautiful blends of superwash merino and silk, and I wanted the design to be written with options to use either weight yarn. As a knitter and all around crafter herself, I knew my Aunt had a preference for fine merino yarn.

Last month I spent several days with my Aunt in California, just after her last chemo treatment, and I was able to gift her the Long Lace Weight version in Moonlit Periwinkle (shown above). I have also made a shorter version (in Wash) that uses half the yarn, which I must admit is my new favorite shawl, and I will be wearing it all summer.

As a therapist and teacher of meditation and mindfulness, my aunt does not get paid vacation or sick days. She has continued working through this experience, as much as she has been able to. But she has missed a lot more work that she had hoped to and the medical bills will continue to accumulate.

All proceeds from the sales of this pattern will go to Robin's Fund. I spent nothing on development so it will all go to her. My usual tech editor is a breast cancer survivor herself and volunteered her services. One of my contractors volunteered to make the fingering weight sample. And Black Trillium Fibers supplied not only the yarn for the samples, but an additional couple of skeins for me to do raffles at future events.

So, please consider purchasing a copy of the pattern for yourself or a gift! Or if you do not need the pattern but want to help, you could donate directly on her YouCaring.com page.

Click Here to Purchase Pattern

If you happen to be local to the Vancouver, WA area, we are starting a Free Crochet Along of the Shawl at Blizzard Yarn and Fibers, every Wednesday 5-7pm, starting tonight! You can purchase the pattern at the shop and get help directly from the designer!

Special thanks to my Photographer Guy Holtzman and my beautiful model Shayna.

Elsie's Farewell Shawl - New Pattern!

Designed for Ficstitches Yarns Spring 2016 Kit Club 

Mary stopped to adjust the drape of her new shawl, straightening the collar and making certain the lace laid just so over her shoulders. Elsie smiled to see her preening over it . . .”

- Excerpt from “The Sojourn Stitch” coming soon from C. Jane Reid

In researching the earliest documented forms of crochet for her first novel, The Secret Stitch, author C. Jane Reid found references Shepherd's Knitting, which was not knitting at all, but actually slip stitches worked with a hooked tool. I wanted to design a collared shawl using this stitch like the wrapped shawls that tie at the back which might have been commonly worn in colonial times, but knew that an all slip stitch shawl would not be a fun project for a Kit Club.

Elsie's Shawl was actually the first design I thought of for our very first Ficstitches Yarns Crochet Kit Club, last year. But I needed a larger skein of yarn than the standard 400+ yard skein most fingering weight yarn comes in. When I saw Bumblebirch's 600 yard skein of Glen, I knew it would be perfect to make this a one skein project.

A modern interpretation of a collared wrap shawl, Elsie's Farewell Shawl begins with a collar formed of short rows of front loop only slip stitches. Then a triangle of shells descends from the collar, gradually decreasing to a curved point. The solid, stretchy fabric of the collar adds weight to the silky lace, keeping it draped over your shoulders without a shawl pin.

You can purchase Elsie's Farewell Shawl on Ravelry.

All Photos © Guy Holtzman