Thursday, August 11, 2016

My 100th Design: Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts

“You don’t know what’s hiding in the brush,” her great aunt had told her sternly as Deirdre pulled on the hook-stitched mitts. Great Aunt Clary tied a stitched kerchief, still smelling of wool oil, around Deirdre’s neck and shoulders. “No fool ever died from being cautious.”

- Excerpt from “The Soldier’s Stitch” by C. Jane Reid
Lacy fingerless mitts and kerchief are both worked in the same pattern of V-stitches from different angles, creating an airy fabric with plenty of stretch. Perfect for life on the island or a cool summer evening.

We recently closed preorders for our Fall Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club, so I am ready to share the design from our Spring Kit. Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts were inspired by the lead character in The Soldier's Stitch by C. Jane Reid, which was published exclusively for our Spring Kit Club, but will be published on it's own in just a few months.

The Kerchief and Mitts are worked in a brand new Sport weight MCN (merino/ cashmere/nylon) yarn from Black Trillium Fibres called Sunriver. The pattern uses about 1 and a 1/2 skeins of 330 yards in Sport weight, so you will need 2 of most standard skeins.

As I often am with lacy patterns, I was inspired by a stitch pattern I came across in a Japanese Stitch Dictionary. If you haven't used one before, these are entire books of nothing but stitch diagrams for a variety of patterns. But after a little experimenting and swatching, by the time I finish with it, the stitch pattern seldom resembles the one I was inspired by.

In this case, I wanted to work out how to increase from a small point (at the bottom of the kerchief) by adding a few stitches on each side of every row. I actually sketched out the stitch diagram first to determine how I would work the increases. This is very unusual for me, as I am very much a process driven designer and tend to work the pattern out as I go.

I was so taken with this particular lace pattern and the idea of creating a triangle from a small point, that I have already developed a couple of other designs using the same combination of alternated rows of V-stitches and 2dcV-Stitches.

For the Mitts, I used the same lace pattern worked back and forth from the fingers down. The stretchiness of this lace pattern lends itself really well to these one-size gloves. As with most of my patterns, I include alternative design suggestions to make it your own, which may help you adjust the Mitts to fit your hands or make the Kerchief into a larger Shawl.

Now you too can crochet this charming set of lacy kerchief and fingerless gloves. The pattern, including detailed stitch diagrams, is now available on Ravelry. With adding this pattern to my designs on Ravelry, this makes my 100th design! So I would like to offer a $1 off coupon for Deirdre's Kerchief and Summer Mitts for the first 2 weeks (until Thursday August 25th). 
Use Discount Code: "100Designs" on the Ravelry!

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Dyers In Their Studios - Barbara and Teresa of Artistry Yarns

I have just returned from Black Sheep Gathering in Eugene, OR where Ficstitches Yarns shared a booth with Craftwich Creations. I met with many indie yarn dyers who we plan to use in future Crochet Kit Clubs. Attending these smaller fiber festivals make it easy for us to connect with local dyers around the pacific northwest to find a variety of luxury yarns to share with crocheters through our quarterly kits.
Teresa at the Country Yarns Shop
Last year was our first year having a booth at one of these festivals, and that was the show where I met Teresa Wilson and Barbara Seeler of Artistry Yarns. Right away, they were interested in dyeing yarn for one of our Crochet Kit Clubs, they even offered to develop custom colorways just for our kits. 
Choose between Cobalt or Amber for our next Kit. Preorder This Month!
Barbara Seeler and Teresa Wilson are a team of artists, each bringing their own background and training to the team that produces Artistry Yarn.  Teresa comes from a background in the arts, dance, theater, costume design and retail sales.  She is currently the sole owner of Country Yarns in Snohomish, Washington.  Barbara comes from a science background. 
We look forwarding to visiting Country Yarns next year for our Book Tour!
Both Barbara and Teresa have been crocheting and knitting since childhood. Combined, Barbara and Teresa have 28 years of experience dyeing both fibers for spinning and dyeing commercially spun yarn.  They take their inspiration for the colorways they create from the world of fine art, many are named for specific artists and their work.  

They currently have four yarn bases from Lace to DK weights. Where ever possible, their yarns, dyes and supplies are ethically sourced and from the USA. They worked together with us to develop both tonal and solid shades of Cobalt and Amber in their Polwarth and Silk DK weight yarn for our Fall 2016 Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club, which is only available for PreOrders this month. So don't miss out!

Artistry Yarns is currently sold only at Country Yarns in Snohomish and various local guild sales. You can also find them at the BSJ Fiber Creations booth at several PNW Fiber Festivals including Black Sheep Gathering, OFFF, Fiber Fusion, and Columbia Gorge. Which just happens to be the same shows our Ficstitches Yarns team frequently attend! You can also find them through their active Facebook page. Their website is coming soon, but Teresa is happy to take orders by phone, (360) 568-7611.

Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Robin's Wings - A New Pattern for a Cause

All proceeds from sales of Robin's Wings will
be donated to my Aunt Robin's Fund to help her
cover medical and living expenses as she is
recovering from chemotherapy for breast cancer.
Check out my newest design, Robin's Wings! You can make it in Lace or Fingering Weight, Long (as shown) or Short. Inspired by my Aunt Robin. I wanted to 'give her wings' to wrap herself in comfort, as she recovers from surgery and chemotherapy for breast cancer.

When I first started designing shawls, she asked me to design her a large, light-weight shawl to use in her meditation practice. But it wasn't until after she was diagnosed that I found my inspiration.

One morning, as I was making my morning mocha in my studio, I was thinking about how I wished I lived closer to my aunt so I could help her more. I was looking over my wall of yarn and suddenly had the inspiration to design a shawl for my aunt, and donate all of the proceeds from the sales of the patterns to her Fund.
I wanted something to represent the feathers of a bird's wings. I grabbed my sketchbook, and began sketching, interlocking feathers, increasing from the center out to create a curve that would stay in place. I figured pineapples would make perfect feathers, with just a little bit of tweaking to get the look and shape I wanted.

By the end of the day, I had 2 large swatches (in lace and fingering weight), and had contacted the dyer at Black Trillium Fibres to arrange to get yarn dyed in my aunt's favorite color. Both their lace weight Silken and fingering weight Lilt are beautiful blends of superwash merino and silk, and I wanted the design to be written with options to use either weight yarn. As a knitter and all around crafter herself, I knew my Aunt had a preference for fine merino yarn.

Last month I spent several days with my Aunt in California, just after her last chemo treatment, and I was able to gift her the Long Lace Weight version in Moonlit Periwinkle (shown above). I have also made a shorter version (in Wash) that uses half the yarn, which I must admit is my new favorite shawl, and I will be wearing it all summer.

As a therapist and teacher of meditation and mindfulness, my aunt does not get paid vacation or sick days. She has continued working through this experience, as much as she has been able to. But she has missed a lot more work that she had hoped to and the medical bills will continue to accumulate.

All proceeds from the sales of this pattern will go to Robin's Fund. I spent nothing on development so it will all go to her. My usual tech editor is a breast cancer survivor herself and volunteered her services. One of my contractors volunteered to make the fingering weight sample. And Black Trillium Fibers supplied not only the yarn for the samples, but an additional couple of skeins for me to do raffles at future events.

So, please consider purchasing a copy of the pattern for yourself or a gift! Or if you do not need the pattern but want to help, you could donate directly on her page.
Click Here to Purchase Pattern
If you happen to be local to the Vancouver, WA area, we are starting a Free Crochet Along of the Shawl at Blizzard Yarn and Fibers, every Wednesday 5-7pm, starting tonight! You can purchase the pattern at the shop and get help directly from the designer!

Special thanks to my Photographer Guy Holtzman and my beautiful model Shayna.

Thursday, April 21, 2016

Elsie's Farewell Shawl - New Pattern!

Designed for Ficstitches Yarns Spring 2016 Kit Club 
Mary stopped to adjust the drape of her new shawl, straightening the collar and making certain the lace laid just so over her shoulders. Elsie smiled to see her preening over it . . .”
- Excerpt from “The Sojourn Stitch” coming soon from C. Jane Reid

In researching the earliest documented forms of crochet for her first novel, The Secret Stitchauthor C. Jane Reid found references Shepherd's Knitting, which was not knitting at all, but actually slip stitches worked with a hooked tool. I wanted to design a collared shawl using this stitch like the wrapped shawls that tie at the back which might have been commonly worn in colonial times, but knew that an all slip stitch shawl would not be a fun project for a Kit Club.
Elsie's Shawl was actually the first design I thought of for our very first Ficstitches Yarns Crochet Kit Club, last year. But I needed a larger skein of yarn than the standard 400+ yard skein most fingering weight yarn comes in. When I saw Bumblebirch's 600 yard skein of Glen, I knew it would be perfect to make this a one skein project.
A modern interpretation of a collared wrap shawl, Elsie's Farewell Shawl begins with a collar formed of short rows of front loop only slip stitches. Then a triangle of shells descends from the collar, gradually decreasing to a curved point. The solid, stretchy fabric of the collar adds weight to the silky lace, keeping it draped over your shoulders without a shawl pin.
You can purchase Elsie's Farewell Shawl on Ravelry.
All Photos © Guy Holtzman

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Aurora's Dawn - From Concept to Creation

My sister's wedding dress began with a sketch she had drawn, and her idea of a gradient orange from light to dark. I knew just which hand-dyer to look at, as she has 60 different gradient shades in 2 different fingering weight bases. So I was able to choose just the perfect colorway, Apricot, in Black Trillium's Lilt gradient. I had used her Lilt for our first Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club last year, and knew the silk blend would provide lovely drape. I was at Black Sheep Gathering a couple weeks after my sister got engaged, where I bought 3 gradient kits of yarn and coordinating beads from Bead Biz
We had found a sewing pattern of a similar shape to her sketch, but in the end I only used the waistband pattern piece as a reference to get started. Once I had completed the waistband, in a stitch I felt would give the core of the dress some structure, I told my sister to choose how I should proceed.
Having designed several garments, I knew that I could choose one lace pattern and shape it to fit her, OR I could try piecing together different flowers, leaves, and doily patterns in the Irish Crochet style -- which I had never done before, but had been wanting to try. With complete confidence in me, my sister told me to go for the crazy lace, although by then, I only had 2 months until the big day.

Since I did not know a lot about Irish Crochet, I started with my friend Kathy White's The Go-To Book Of Irish Crochet as well as a few other motif and Japanese doily books,. Before committing to motif lace, I made up a few pieces in the lightest shade of yarn, and began stitching them together. I knew I was on the right track when I realized that the pieces I had already would be perfect for one side of the bodice, and I just kept going.

I loved the idea of following a bunch of other people's patterns for motifs and seeing how I could piece them together, especially looking for patterns of leaves and flowers that would lay flat to create a smoother fabric. With a fall wedding and shades of orange yarn, my sister especially wanted to include lots of leaves, but I also found that doilies and snowflakes worked well.
I soon decided that as long as I was going to do this, I should make every single motif different! I ended up with 8 different books as reference, was soon creating variations of what I found in the books, and eventually made the motifs up as I went along. I learned a lot about how different designers start and write their circular motif patterns, and which ones worked best for me.
Having 3 small balls of each of the 5 shades in the colorway made it easy to crochet on the go (and I mean everywhere). I would work up a motif from each end of each ball for up to 6 motifs in a shade, leaving them attached to the balls to avoid wasting yarn. Then I spread them out when I was home, see how they might fit together, and start pinning them to the slip on her dressform, which I had my sister adjust to her own measurements. I was constantly surprised how well the shaping worked as I connected the random pieces and shapes together, filling in the spaces between with interconnected chain loops.I figured the dress would be as long as it was going to be, until I ran out of yarn, or time. Whichever came first. 
After several years of needing to write patterns for everything I make, allowing myself the freedom to try various patterns, play with how to make it all fit together, and see it turn out even better than I had imagined was remarkable. We made a few changes from my sister's original sketch due to the limitations of working with yarn, but she certainly seemed happy with the results. This was certainly a labor of love, but I hope to find reasons to do more of this type of designing in the future, freeform rather than structured. 
For more pictures of the finished dress, check out yesterday's post. I have been told that the photos do not do it justice, so this month, "Aurora's Dawn" is Going On Tour! The dress was on display a couple weeks ago in the Bead Biz booth at Madrona, last weekend in the Black Trillium booth at Stitches West, in a couple weeks we will be doing a Trunk Show/Book Signing/Make'n'Take at Happy Knits in Portland during the Rose City Yarn Crawl, and we will have booths at various PNW shows later this year.

Saturday, February 20, 2016

Aurora's Dawn - A Crocheted Wedding Dress

Aurora's Dawn- 3 months, 108 different motifs, 100's of tiny beads and buttons, and 1800 yards of fingering weight gradient yarn on size C and E hooks.

My sister Aurora was named for the Goddess of the Dawn, so it only made sense that she chose to be married in the colors of the sunrise as she celebrated the dawning of a new life with her Guy. 

For years we have agreed that if she got married again, I would crochet her a dress. Afterall, she sewed my wedding dress (nearly 20 years ago), and once I started designing garments, it just made sense. 
But when she got engaged last June, she gave me just three months to not only design, but create the fabric for her one-of-a-kind 'modern Irish' crocheted lace dress.

Given more time, I might have chosen a lace weight yarn to create even more delicate lace as I imagined for a wedding dress. However, the Black Trillium Fibres fingering weight Gradient Yarn in Apricot turned out to be the perfect thing to create a fabric that gradually shifted in color from palest yellow to the deep orange of the waistband and bottom edge.

I have played with freeform crochet in the past, but not in lace. Inspired by designing Ailee's Wedding Shawl for our first Ficstitches Yarns crochet Kit Club last year, I wanted to explore the technique of joining separate motifs like Irish Crochet was a great excuse to go through the books of motifs and doilies in my collection and try all sorts of different patterns to see how they worked up. With a fall wedding, my sister wanted lots of leaves in her dress, so I made all sorts of leaf motifs, and chose doily patterns with "pineapples" which also reminded us of leaves.

Once I got started, I decided that every motif should be different. I was worried that so many different patterns would be distracting. But as they were joined together they blended into a solid fabric.

As I got closer to the bottom, I added beads to many of the flowers and the bottom edging. I wanted to form a flower garden along the bottom front, inspired by the flowers my sister's new husband has been growing. I included sunflowers for my sister and lilies for her husband, and was very pleased with the final result.

 Tomorrow I will post more details and photos of the process.

Special Thanks to Guy Holtzman for all of the photos in this post.

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Grahame's Gorget - New Pattern!

"I recalled the way the armor seemed to flow from head to neck to shoulders, like a mantle or a monk’s cowl, but close, protective. Thick. And an image began to form in my head about that sort of thing in wool." - Unraveling: The New World, Part Three by C. Jane Reid

My design for our third and final Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club of 2015, Grahame's Gorget, was inspired by the piece of armor that protects the neck, called a "gorget". When faced with the need to protect her husband from an unknown threat which seems to attack neck and be repelled by wool, our heroine, Ailee, finds a quick way to turn the wool fleece she has into a protective garment.

By spinning a very thick yarn (like the super bulky Dredz yarn from Abstract Fiber included in Kit #3), she was able to quickly make a dense fabric to fit around the neck. Using short rows allowed me to to add width around the shoulders while keeping the neck more snug, . I like the idea that as a novice stitcher, the finished garment looks a little lumpy, as if she added and lost stitches a little randomly as she worked. But once you lay it out, you realize that the increases are quite intentional, creating an unusual shape that is easy to wear.

Since crochet was not commonly known in the colonial time period of our stories, I have been experimenting with various stitches that look a little more like knit, by inserting into various insertion points. If you have tried any of my edgeless crocheted cables, you will be familiar with inserting in the "lower-bar" of the stitch. If not, the pattern includes a photo tutorial showing where to insert your hook, and I will be adding more thorough tutorials here on my blog very soon.

For this kit, I got the chance to make the leather closures, inspired by harness straps in the story. With the chunky yarn and large hook, it will be easy to slide various types of closure between the stitches so you can wear the cowl open at the shoulder or the front. Additional suggestions for buttons or seaming are also included in the pattern, to give crocheters options to really make it their own.

If you haven't already, don't miss out on our first Kit Club of 2016, available for Preorders, This Week Only! This next kit will include a stand-alone story following one of the characters introduced in Ailee's story, which you don't want to miss!

The pattern for Grahame's Gorget is also now available on Ravelry. The pattern will also be one of 9 patterns inspired by Ailee's story, coming out end of March 2016!